DRAFT Magazine

We can think of a few brewers that when given carte blanche with a limited-run beer series produce hit-or-miss brews. New Glarus’ Daniel Carey is not one of them. His Unplugged Series has seen the likes of a Belgian quad, an Eisbock, and a so-good-you’d-mistake-it-for-Mott’s apple ale, all executed with the skill you’d expect from a member of Le Chevalerie du Fourquet des Brasseurs (an elite Belgian brewing guild).

Carey’s latest opus, an imperial saison, is one of his greatest works to date, and a breathtaking example of how non-aggressive imperial styles can be. Atop a cloudy orange brew, a gargantuan, foamy white head emits a customary saison scent with light fruit notes. Very tart but not hostile, the flavor exposes pear tastes, apricot notes, some alcohol in the throat, and a bit of haylike dustiness that proves the beer as a saison. Banana esters and a ginger note aren’t distractions; rather, they work in tandem with the rest of the flavors to form a cohesive, well-composed profile that yields one balanced, unified taste. Dangerously drinkable even with a hidden 9% ABV, this imperial saison is a wonderful amalgam of brewing expertise, respect for tradition and mad-scientist imagination.